Hadrian’s Wall Day 0
We drove down to Chollerford, where we dropped off the car at The George Hotel which we would be returning to in a few days. From there, we took a taxi to Denton Farmhouse in Low Row. This isn’t even close to the west coast, but we had decided early on to cut out the cities at either end of the wall. Living in Seoul, we spend quite enough time walking on sidewalks through downtown. Low Row wasn’t even the most westerly point of the wall we would be walking along– Day 1 begins with a walk in the wrong direction, because we found a nice walking circuit that included a few sites we wanted to see.
So, after a few missed turns and phone calls with the owners of the B&B, we finally got there. It was a beautiful old farmhouse with several out-buildings attached, horses running around the field, and most importantly, a tower with walls about six feet thick. That was our room. When we arrived, the children were playing outside with planks of wood (trying to crush each other’s skulls from the looks of it). I was worried that we wouldn’t get much sleep with such rowdy boys around, but they had clearly been well-trained, because the only sound we heard from them once they came inside was one telling the other once, “Be quiet. We’ve got guests.
By the time we got settled in and stopped gawking at our awesome room (there was a hidden staircase in the bathroom!), it was time for dinner. The farmer/ owner recommended a place two towns over and offered to drive us, but he was clearly busy, so we decided to go to the less-highly-recommended place within walking distance. Unfortunately, they were having what looked to be a private function and people were drinking outside because there wasn’t enough room for them to stand inside. Plus, they weren’t serving meals that night.
We walked back with the plan of ordering takeout, but once we finally got a restaurant to answer their phone, they put Craig on hold and clearly forgot he was there. After about ten minutes (he’s much more patient than I am), he gave up. In the end, we had granola bars and such that had been intended for snacks while we hiked.
We finished our evening with a long soak in the giant tub and a little bit of trashy TV before calling it an early night. The TV was worth mentioning because Craig rarely watches any and I can get pulled in to a trashy reality show in about ten
minutes seconds. We watched Seven Dwarves,a Real World-type show about seven little people put in a house together, and Young, Dumb, and Living Off Mum, which ended up being so bad we couldn’t watch it. Or, rather, I couldn’t watch it. Craig could easily forgo most TV.
The next morning, we had the first of the trip’s many full English breakfasts before hitting the road shortly before 9:00 AM.
Day 1: Low Row to Greenhead
Day 2 Greenhead to Twice Brewed
Day 3 Twice Brweed to Chollerford
Day 4 Chollerford… to Chollerford